A Comprehensive Guide to Double-Breasted Suit

by | Jun 7, 2023 | Style Guide | 0 comments

Once considered old-fashioned, double-breasted jackets are now seen as a fashionable choice for both men and women. While they may not be as commonly worn in everyday settings, they are still highly regarded as a stylish choice for formal occasions, particularly as a wedding suit. The double-breasted silhouette offers a unique and sophisticated look that can elevate any wearer’s sense of style. Designers have given a modern twist to this classic style making them a statement piece by incorporating slimmer fits, shorter lengths, and unique patterns and prints. In addition to the traditional solid colors, there are now a plethora of options available, including bold checks, pinstripes, and vibrant hues. With its timeless appeal and contemporary reinvention, the double-breasted trend is here to stay, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication to modern fashion. 

What is a double-breasted suit?

what is a double breasted suit

A double-breasted suit is a type of suit jacket that features overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. It typically has six or eight buttons on the front, with two parallel columns of buttons. The lapel on it is usually wide, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall look. This style of suit jacket originated in the 19th century as a military uniform, providing the wearer with added warmth and protection. Over time, it transitioned into everyday fashion and became associated with elegance, sophistication, and formality.

One key feature of the double-breasted suit jacket is that it accentuates the waistline and gives a more tailored appearance. This type of suit is typically more formal than its single-breasted counterpart. Additionally, this style of suit may not be as versatile as it needs a little more effort to be dressed down or worn with different combinations. However, you can still wear the jacket as a blazer and paired with a contrasting pair of pants to create a more relaxed and stylish look.

Double-Breasted Suit vs Single-Breasted Suit

double breasted vs single breasted suit

The double-breasted suit is often associated with traditional menswear and can create a powerful and commanding look. The extra layers of fabric and two parallel columns of buttons add structure to the suit. This gives it a more tailored and polished appearance. This style is often favored for black-tie events or formal business occasions. On the other hand, the single-breasted suit is known for its simplicity, versatility and modern look. It has a single row of buttons on the front, which allows for a more open and relaxed appearance. This style is suitable for various occasions, from business meetings to casual weddings. In terms of fit, the double-breasted suit tends to be more fitted and tailored, highlighting the wearer’s silhouette. The single-breasted suit can be tailored to fit the wearer’s body shape and can provide a more slimming effect. Ultimately, both suits offer their own distinct style and charm, and the decision ultimately comes down to personal preference and the desired look.

The Construction of Double- Breasted Suit

The Construction of Double- Breasted Suit

Choice of Fabrics for Double-Breasted Suit

double breasted suit fabric

When choosing the fabric for a double-breasted suit, be sure to consider the climate and occasion for which the suit will be worn. For warmer climates, lightweight and breathable fabrics such as linen or cotton are a popular choice. These fabrics help to keep cool and comfortable throughout the day. However, for colder climates, wool is a preferred choice. Its natural insulation properties provide warmth and protection against the cold. Another important factor to consider is the durability and longevity of the fabric. A double-breasted suit is a classic and timeless piece, and you want the fabric to be able to withstand regular wear and last for years to come. Wool is known for its durability and ability to resist wrinkles, making it a reliable choice for a long-lasting suit. However, if you prefer a more casual look, you may opt for a cotton or linen blend. These fabrics tend to have a casual aesthetic. Additionally, the color and pattern of the fabric are important aspects to consider. Solid colors such as navy, gray, or black are versatile and timeless options that can be worn for both formal and casual occasions. If you’re looking to make a statement, you may choose a fabric with a subtle pattern or texture, such as herringbone or pinstripe. These patterns add visual interest and can elevate the overall look of the suit. 


double breasted jacket construction

The construction of a double-breasted jacket is a delicate process that requires expertise and craftsmanship to achieve its iconic look. Skilled tailors meticulously craft each component, ensuring that the jacket fits well and achieves the desired aesthetic. The process itself involves several key elements that create its unique and sophisticated appearance. Starting with the front of the jacket, it typically features a double layer of fabric. This is known as the lapel that overlaps and is secured with buttons or snap fasteners, adding a touch of formality and elegance. Next, the diagonal button placement creates the illusion of a slimmer waistline which is achieved by placing two rows of buttons. The front of the jacket is often tailored with a flat front, providing a streamlined and sleek silhouette. 


double breasted suit buttons

A double-breasted suit typically has six buttons, with two rows of three buttons each. The placement of these buttons is essential to maintaining the suit’s sleek appearance. The top row of buttons has a decorative purpose, while the bottom row is used to fasten the suit. The general rule is to always leave the bottom buttons unbuttoned. It not only allows for ease of movement but also helps in preventing the suit from appearing too tight or constricting. The number of buttons that should be fastened depends on personal preference and the occasion. For a formal event or business setting, it is common to fasten all the buttons except for the bottom ones. This adds a touch of formality and professionalism to the overall look. On the other hand, for a more casual or relaxed setting, leaving a few buttons open can create a more laid-back and stylish appearance.


double breasted lapel style

The peak lapel is commonly used for this style of suit as it is known for its sharp, pointed shape that extends towards the shoulder. The width of the lapel draws attention to the chest area, making the wearer appear broader and more commanding. Additionally, a wider lapel can create a harmonious and flattering look on this elegant. 


double breasted suit vents

Vents are slits or openings on the back of the jacket that allow for ease of movement and provide a more flattering fit. The double vents are preferred and will make the front and the back of back of the jacket look symmetrical. Also, it gives a more modern and contemporary look while also allowing for greater comfort and mobility. 


pairing trousers to double breast suit

When it comes to pairing trousers with a double-breasted suit, there are a few key style choices to consider. First and foremost, the trousers should have a high waistline to create a polished and sleek look that complements the structure of the jacket. Opting for a pleated front can add elegance and sophistication to the outfit, especially when paired with a wider leg. Another notable choice is to go for trousers with a slight taper towards the ankle. This creates a contemporary and streamlined outline that complements the jacket’s fit.

How to Style Double-Breasted Suit 

how to style a double breasted suit

Wearing a double-breasted suit is often seen as a fashion statement for the modern gentleman. The key to styling this suit lies in choosing the right shirt and tie combination. To create a polished look, opt for a crisp white dress shirt and pair it with a classic silk tie in a complimentary color, such as navy blue or burgundy. A double-breasted suit in black is a fantastic choice for formal occasions. When paired with a waistcoat, it adds an extra layer of refinement and polish to the ensemble. The waistcoat, often made from high-quality fabrics, such as silk or wool, accentuates the suit’s structured silhouette. To complete the ensemble, choose a well-polished pair of black oxford shoes that perfectly match the suit. Consider adding a pocket square for a touch of flair. Remember to avoid over-accessorizing to keep the focus on the suit’s impeccable style. 


Double-breasted suit can instantly elevate your style and make you stand out in a crowd. It gives off an air of sophistication and elegance. The overlapping front panels and the additional buttons create a polished and formal look that can make a powerful statement. They are perfect for formal events such as weddings or business meetings, but can also be dressed down for a more casual yet still stylish look. Owning a double-breasted suit is a long-term investment but the timeless style will never go out of fashion. By choosing a high-quality suit, you can be sure that it will last for years to come.

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